I know I have covered this before but when I was searching up something for my power supply build I came across a schematic for a proper supply divider. This schematic came from a book a friend gave me a while back. The circuit was published in 1971. I also tried it out and it works well.
The circuit uses jellybean parts and very cheap to build. The transistors act as current boosters in the feedback loop of the control circuit.
Still waiting on my package. It has been sitting at a post office across town for a week. I checked on the status yesterday and they changed the date on when it arrived there from the 24th to the 28th. However the post office claims it will be here today.
I got a hold of a 12 inch Woofer that I plan to use for the final Transducer build. That is if it can fit under the couch. If it doesn’t fit I’ll leave it alone and maybe build a speaker box for it and maybe use it in the car or living room.
Got a reply from the battery charger manufacturer. They told me no due to FCC regulations they can not give out any datasheets or diagrams
“Thank you for your inquiry about
Because it is against FCC Policy to open any Analog and Microprocessor Controlled or High Frequency Speed Chargers, Schumacher Electric does not supply wiring diagrams, schematics or parts for our products. Parts for chargers are handled by Century Tool.”
Kinda doubt that, just their way of saying “NO” nicely. If it was a FCC regulation then you couldn’t access datasheets to any forum of power supply let alone published articles in books, magazines and websites. I guess I’ll just reverse engineer the charger and figure out what output is what.
I was putting stuff away in my storage shed one day and saw a old car battery charger. It can handle 2 to 12 amps continuously. It can even handle 75 amps for five second bursts. Doubt I’ll need that much current but 12 amps is more then plenty. I emailed the manufacturer for datasheets for the transformer. I hope to hear back from them so I can use it for the power supply.
With the bass turned up all the way I found the Woofer in my amp is blown. Besides that however the transducer works great. Did a bunch of bass test clips from YouTube, Gaming clips such as Fallout 4 and even the classic Saving Private Ryan beach scene.
The test unit I built is a five inch 8 ohm Woofer. I had four layers of thin plastic plates and found it works best with two layers. After Christmas I will mount it under the couch at the spot where the family and I sit for gaming. I’ll start posting pictures by then.
Finished and gave back the troublesome laptop I repaired. Works like a charm. I had to create a special install image for it by slipstreaming the drivers for the laptop into the install. For some reason with generic drivers the system freaked out.
I got my Son’s Gaming PC finished. For some reason the AMD SATA driver set does not like Windows 7. I tried so many ways on tackling that problem but couldn’t get it to work. I had no choice to install Windows 8. He’s happy and hasn’t been off it since. Only issue however is the annoying OSD lockout that pops up constantly. Think it has a dead menu switch. I told him with his Christmas money he should get a new LCD.
To keep the project cost low since his budget is small we decided to use a Netgear WiFi extender since I have a bunch of them a friend gave me. Stupid thing for some reason was a pain to setup. Some reason the DHCP wasn’t enabled and even if you used a static address it wouldn’t talk to the extender and you also need WiFi to set it up. Be nice you can set it up with a wired Ethernet connection and have DHCP automatically turned on.
On main desktop the wife and I share I had to clean out a bunch of junk. Over 100GB of crap was deleted and a bunch of spyware/malware from the wife trying to get the Webcam working. She installed Driver Detective that is nothing more then a Trojan of spyware. The system doesn’t have a huge hard drive but a couple of smaller drives. The C:\> is a small 120GB hard drive that pretty much only has Windows, User profiles and a couple of programs while D:\> is a 600GB drive that has everything else. However to my insanity I have a 20GB drive that is just for Virtual Memory. Works well and I don’t care what anyone says but it is faster in my opinion to have the Pagefile.sys on it’s own drive.
When I was putting this all together the first time around the 600GB drive was the primary drive and later added the 120GB drive. This became a hassle after a while and when I was able to have it my way I tossed on Windows 7 onto the 120GB and just switched things around. Granted I have ran into a few issues on the way such as some programs do not let you select where you want to install the data. For a example my wife loves to play Sims3 and has almost all of the expansion packs. This eats up a ton of space by a whole whopping 70GB. Since it is installed by EA’s Orion it forcefully makes you use C:\Program Files (x86)\Orion Games\. The more data on your primary drive the longer it takes to collect the data and thus slows it down. so with Windows and Sims3 I was down to 20GB free. Kinda BS that Windows eats up so much space. Anyway I started to think their must be a way to do a system link like in Unix/Linux. After thinking about it I would have to format the second drive and make it link to the directory and blah blah blah. I didn’t want that but after asking around I found a program called DirLinker. It can move the files you want and links it to the old location so no need to play with the registry or anything. Even comes in handy if say my wife installs something and forgets to redirect it to D:\>.
Times I wish I was OCD with other things then just with the computer.
Not so much a post but when you get a tool you want it is still fun to brag about. Even if it’s a cheap one.
For a Christmas present from my wife she got me Coping saw and a set of blades for it. Never know how great it is to have this kind of saw until you get one. Trying to make notches and dove tails with a jig saw or even a hack saw is not the way to go let alone to make precise cuts without tearing up the item you’re cutting. This will get plenty of use for sure.
Last night I cracked open my all in one Amp/Woofer and added a Mono stereo jack and spliced it into the Woofer. I kinda doubt it will be powerful enough to push the transducer and woofer but I do have a 120watt bass guitar amp I can use. Might need to put a diode inline so it doesn’t kill my small stereo amp.
Before making a guide with pretty pictures I am preforming a test build. From the info I have found people have been using Devcon 2-ton epoxy. From my experience it doesn’t hold up well to shock and vibration. However JB Weld does so I’m trying it out to see how well it sticks to the voice coil dust cap.
After some thinking I might need a small amp to drive the transducer since my Stereo amp isn’t all that powerful.
Over time I have kept a bunch of speakers from stereos, TVs and what not. I cam across a video on YouTube on home made Tactile Transducers so I thought why not. So tomorrow I’ll toss one together and see how it works and probably toss up some pictures of it. I can see the family fighting over the gaming seat for movies now lol.
My oldest step son has been buying parts left and right for a gaming PC. He finally got the last two parts in and I showed him how to put it together. When it was time to install Windows onto the machine we ran into a problem. The Hard Drive controller requires a driver and even with EFI set to use IDE emulation it still requires a driver. Well no problem since we have the CD that came with the motherboard and even has detailed instructions on where the drivers are located on the CD. No matter how I do it the system doesn’t like the drivers. Tried the CD, got the latest driver from the motherboard’s manufacturer website. Still nothing. Get to the point it loads the drivers and comes back with no compatible hardware found. So when I was at work I ran into a guy that does IT work for the government. He said to try and see if there is a driver set directly from AMD. Sure enough there is yet I still run into the same problem but a different error so I’m thinking the RAM disk is full at this point so I’m trying out RT 7 Lite to slim down and to slipstream the drivers into the boot.wim file. I hope all goes well or we will have to go the Linux route since about 90% of the games my son plays are on steam and have been ported to Linux. Or use Linux to find the PCI/VEN info and check out the INF to the controller and see if it matches. I just hope it isn’t a bad motherboard.